 Introduction
“You are the carpenter, and every day you hammer a nail, place a board, or erect a wall. Someone once said, ‘Life is a do-it-yourself project.’ Your attitude and the choices you make today help build the house you will live in tomorrow. Therefore, build wisely!”
That’s a quote from a blog by someone who calls himself “Dexter, the quote guy.” His blog is about spreading the positive word and being of service to others. We like the quote. But while he takes the philosophical view, we’re strictly taking the bricks and mortar approach!
This is a five-part series describing the steps in building a house. Most would-be homeowners hire an architect or contractor, or else go with residential developers that offer turnkey projects. There are those, however, who like to do it “from scratch.” They want the house to mirror their personal tastes and lifestyle, or they want to have more control over certain design aspects. Still others want to make sure that the materials they buy can withstand the test of time and comply with building standards currently in force.
Common sense dictates that you need a “GPS” to build a house, especially if this is your first experience. Compare it to visiting a place you’ve never been to before. You’d like, at least, to have an idea of where it is, how long it takes to get there, and if it has any attractions or dangers. You’ll want maps in case you get lost along the way.
Building a house is the same. You choose a location, find out if it’s feasible for building, and whether it’s safe for growing children. You’ll also need plans and designs; you’ll want to know if there are any zoning changes being planned in the future. For instance, how would you feel if after paying for a lot to build your dream home, you find out later that the city plans to transform part of the site into a huge landfill, or build railroad tracks for freight trains?
Construction is a multi-faceted and versatile industry. You either take it as one whole or take it in different segments. It has a lot to offer to anyone wanting to build from scratch or undertaking a fixer-upper. Construction is one industry where evolution and innovation are its hallmarks. No one can claim there isn’t much to choose from. Quite the contrary – there are far way too many choices! Building a house requires detailed planning to avoid costly mistakes. And you do need to rely on a few experts.
Hold off on buying the cement, plywood and equipment. Do your homework and the prep work before anything else. There is a sequence of steps to follow - a method to the madness.
This report covers –
- Part 1 Prep Work (this is the “taking care of business” section; it includes what needs to be done even before the “rubber meets the road.”)
- Part 2 Starting at the Bottom (what goes under – also known as footings and foundation)
- Part 3 Going Around (a.k.a. framing)
- Part 4 Outside Finishing (when framing is complete, the exterior finishing for the house comes next)
- Part 5 Let’s Go Inside (this part feels like almost home where you turn a structure into your your personal refuge - a safe haven for you and your family. It’s also the most exciting phase!)
These are general guidelines only. You need to consult an engineer and an electrician for work that may entail any risk to life and limb.
Don’t go into house building like wandering aimlessly into the forest, dealing with the unexpected on the fly. Don’t shoot from the hip or shoot yourself on the foot. Get your brain into gear and prepare for combat.
By doing the prep work beforehand, you avoid unpleasant surprises and going over budget.
Part 1: Prep Work
“Houses are built to live in and not to look on.” (Francis Bacon, Sr.)
In this section, we’ll talk about:
- Choosing a location
- Speaking to the Bank
- Municipal Laws
- Plans and Blueprints
- Expertise
- Checklist
Choosing a Location
When choosing a location, make sure that a house can be built on it. Some lots carry no restrictions, other have restrictions as to the types of structures that can be built. Find out if there are connections to the main water supply, if the soil is free from contaminants, and if the location is a flood area.
Check the Register of Deeds for any liens on the property. As for the neighbourhood, check out schools, hospitals, shopping centers and recreational facilities. Verify if the location is safe for growing children – what is the crime rate in this part of town?
Speaking to the Bank
If you don’t have personal savings or can’t obtain “love money” from family members, speak to your bank and find out how much they’re willing to lend you. They will ask for certain information which you should provide. They’ll decide the loan or mortgage amount after they’ve assessed your debts and your ability to meet loan payments.
Money for actual expenses and money for unforeseen expenses are two separate things. Plan for both. Negotiate your interest rate. Find out how funds will be disbursed. Some banks will release funds only upon presentation of expense receipts, or will release funds to your contractor or supplier after they check his credentials and licence. Also, be aware that banks may treat construction loans differently from loans for residential projects by established developers.
Municipal Laws
Check with City Hall if there are any zoning by-laws in your location, or if there are any projects in the future. What building permits do they require? How soon can you get them (in some areas, it could be up to six weeks’ waiting time).
What about property and school taxes?
Plans and Blueprints
First rule: the plan must fit in with the type of lot you intend to purchase. The reverse is also true. Make sure the lot can accommodate the type of plan you have.
Go over the plan with a fine toothed comb and ask yourself:
Are the different components of the plan feasible in terms of budget, geography, family habits, subdivision requirements, heating and cooling equipment?
Has an engineer or electrician looked over the plan and confirm it’s do-able?
How many people will be involved to execute the plan (make a list of all the sub trades that you will be contracting with). For example, installing the alarm and sound systems, the swimming pool, the gas line, etc.
Do I have a back-up plan for each of the work stages?
Keep track of the people you give copies of your plans to because when their respective jobs are completed, you’ll want your plan back.
Expertise
When you’ve completed your list of sub-contractors, request quotes. Three quotes per sub-contractor will help you compare prices. Ensure their licences are valid. It may take more time, but devote some time to call their references.
When choosing experts for certain aspects of the plan, select reputable companies even if they cost a few hundred dollars more. The saying, “you get what you pay for” should guide you, although like most things in life, there are no guarantees.
The first experts you should consult are: surveyors, framing experts and an excavator.
The quotes you receive must be professionally presented showing an itemised breakdown of materials and man hours with delivery dates, or time tables if the work will be done in stages. Check the quality of materials in their quotes (visit a large home hardware outlet and see if the materials are priced right).
Ask as many questions until you’re 100% comfortable. If the sub-contractor seems hesitant to answer your questions, drop him and go to the next one on your list.
Checklist
While you’re waiting for word from the bank, the building permits from City Hall, and estimates from sub-contractors, prepare an exhaustive checklist.
Divide your checklist into categories, estimated budgets, actual expenses, contact details for sub-contractors, estimated dates for project completion, miscellaneous items and a large space for notes. Always take notes! You’ll be surprised at how much you can forget especially when you’re dealing with a myriad of details and people. Input every piece of data into a device so that you don’t have a confusing mass of information to remember. You don’t want to keep repeating, “I thought you said...”
Tip # 1: if you can’t set aside a budget for an architect or designer, there are numerous house plans for sale which you can modify within reasonable limits.
Tip # 2: “the biggest difference between a professional and a layperson managing a construction project is that a professional spends about 80% of his time in the setup, the work done before a shovel hits the turf.” (Amy Johnston, author)
Tip # 3: a house building software program could help you streamline the different projects related to building a house. Google “house building software” and you’ll be amazed at how many there are. Pick one to your liking. A few might even offer a trial period!
Part 2: Starting at the Bottom
“A man builds a house in England with the expectation of living in it and leaving it to his children; we shed our houses in America as easily as a snail does his shell”
Harriet Beecher Stowe
In this section, we’ll talk about:
- Excavation
- Foundations and Engineers
- Surveying
- Essential Hook-Ups
- Excavation
Unless you’ve done any excavation work before, leave this to the pros. They are familiar with the lay of the land and have all the necessary equipment to make that big hole on which your house will stand.
A good thing to bear in mind is that most professional excavators charge on an hourly basis. As soon as they arrive on the site, have everything prepared. This advice, of course, is useless once the hole is dug and there’s a surprise or two waiting for you at the bottom. For example, what seems like smooth soil aboveground could reveal a “theatre of war” down under, as one writer put it.
Professional excavators own at least one or two bulldozers, backhoe (loader), a dump truck, and some have trailers and pick-up trucks. All of these pieces of equipment cost money, so don’t be surprised if excavators charge you something like $50.00 to $90.00 an hour. And yes, they will charge you even if their machines are idle. This is why it is a good idea to have locating stakes, benchmarks and clear drawings when they arrive.
The excavation process is composed of the following work: stumping (if your lot has plenty of trees), stripping, soil stockpiling, and digging the hole.
Don’t give in to the temptation of burying the stumps somewhere around your lot. The better approach is to have a truck take them away.
Foundations and Engineers
If this is the first time you’re building a house, you need at least one expert - an engineer. He’s there to give the green light to various job segments. For example, if your house will be built on a hill, valley or mountain slope, he’ll be able to advise you on how to keep your house in place, despite weather changes. He may recommend additional reinforcement like steel slabs or industrial type of concrete.
Don’t skimp when engaging the services of an engineer. You want your house to be a sturdy and durable structure, not a house of cards. Your house and driveway foundation could be one of the best investments you’ll ever make. Use only good quality materials.
The type of foundation you need depends on the loads it will support. A small porch for example, will need only some reasonable underpinnings whereas a gazebo foundation needs to be supported from below and on the sides.
Steel reinforces structures. There’s a settling period to account for and the slab and garage floor may have cracks, but these cracks can be repaired.
Other engineering services required will be in the basement construction, particularly if the backfilled walls of the foundation measure over 6 inches.
Speaking of backfilling (and grading), these tasks can be done after inspection of the drain tile.
When the foundation is all set, you will need layers of gravel, poly and concrete for doing the slab or skim coat. Experts say that house owners could probably do the skim coat, but the slab must be handled by an experienced concrete finisher.
This is where footings come into play. Footings must always be placed below the freezing line; it has to sit in the ground deeper than the deepest point of freezing temperatures. Thicker footings make up for unequal bearings.
Request a footings inspection.
Other considerations to factor in during the foundation phase:
- Foundation stripping
- Damp proofing
- Drain tile – this is a structure that is placed around your house’s perimeters and applies to houses with below grade level living space (ex. storage or crawl spaces). Some city governments will not allow the hooking of pipes into the perimeter drain, so a second line is required leading to a gravel pit. This is an indispensable part of the job and needs to be done correctly.
Surveying
A surveyor measures the area for the purposes of location, volume, form and limits (boundaries).
Some will think of surveying as an additional unnecessary expense. Being penny wise but pound foolish is not the most efficient approach. A surveyor will inspect the post-foundation stage and this inspection can spare you from the frustration of finding out that the foundation was built in the wrong spot!
Essential Hook Ups
The connections for essential services are next. The next experts on your list are the plumber and electrician.
Generally, the plumber installs:
- running water devices for sinks, tubs, showers, toilets, water meters and restrictors of water flow.
- He will also lay out the incoming and outgoing (draining) pipes.
- Sewer system
- Incoming and outgoing (draining) pipes
The electrician, on the other hand, installs:
- Electrical panels
- Wiring
- Light fixtures
- Thermostats
- Alarm and sound systems
- Telephones
- Fibre optic wires and cables
The city may request the specifications for the plumbing and electrical work and send an inspector.
Tip # 4: If you excavate the area yourself and rent heavy machinery, reserve an amount for having the dirt transported away. Thinking he saved money by doing the excavation work himself, one do-it-yourselfer was surprised to learn that he had to shell out $6,000.00 to transport the soil elsewhere – something he did not budget for.
Tip # 5: “Rebar” is a term you will hear when you’re doing foundation work. Rebars are steel rods that are attached to footings in a concrete foundation. For houses, the rebars are usually # 4 and # 5 rods, but the type, size, positioning and quantity of rebars depend on type of soil, among other things.
Part 3: Going Around the House (a.k.a. Framing)
“Houses mean a creation, something new, a shelter freed from the idea of a cave”.
Stephen Gardiner
In this section we’ll talk about:
- Frames and Beams
- Heating and Cooling
- Doors and Windows
- Frames and Beams
Now that you’ve taken care of the bottom of your house, it’s time to take care of the sides. The frames and beams now should be delivered; plan well ahead of time for this phase because the work is going to pick up at a faster rate from now on.
The house plan and layout are now in the finalization stage so discuss any changes with your framer. Any changes later can be costly. Make sure that when the framing crew arrives, they have the materials they need.
Confirm the scope of work with your framer. For instance, does his quote include nails, frames for the sidewalks and driveways, and studs? What about:
- I-beams
- Railings
- Decorative grills
- Fencing
- Pipe columns
- Girders, joists, studs and rafters
Weigh the pros and cons of frame materials. Metal and wood do not contract or expand the same way. They have advantages and disadvantages when it comes to heat, fire and water.
Generally, most framing jobs include the structural elements of the house and begin with the sills and girders, on to the floors, walls and roofs plus sheathing. The roof trim and shingling are also put up during this stage; the same for doors, windows and siding.
As for trusses, these are small pieces of wood that are put together into units. These units, in turn, form the roof structure. Roof trusses are usually located in the outside walls of the house.
One thing to remember: trusses are not built to high standards; some manufacturers try to economize by using a lower grade of lumber. Make your selection carefully.
When roofers come to work, the roof vents must already be in place.
Heating & Cooling
Heating and cooling technicians must know where cabinets are going to be installed.
Make sure pipes are installed in such a way that they do not create a lot of noise. The best time to locate squeaks is now rather than later.
If you plan on having a fireplace, your priority should be on the quality of the unit rather than on esthetics. Sealed fireplaces with direct vents are recommended.
It is at this stage that a rough-in for the air conditioning must also be installed.
This is the time when your electrician comes for a second visit. Walk around the house with him and tell him where you want your outlets to be located. Make provisions for the future. For example, will you be purchasing additional appliances that would require an extra outlet? What about the Christmas tree? And the huge screen plasma TV?
Fans for the stove and bathroom should be good quality fans and are worth the investment.
Heating and cooling systems have come a long way. Learn about the latest technologies that promote energy efficiency.
Apart from the energy efficiency feature, you’ll also want to factor in comfort. You don’t want a high maintenance system. You want to be able to activate heating and cooling controls without cumbersome steps.
Compare the advantages and disadvantages of different systems like loop systems with diverter valves, baseboards, furnace or heat pumps, fibreglass duct boards, or low velocity air. Seek the opinion of experts if you have to.
Doors & Windows
While doors and windows are two separate items, they are lumped into one category by builders. As the roof nears completion, doors and windows are delivered to the site and are installed before the siding.
Doors and windows are expensive; the more windows and doors a house has, the higher your budget must be. This is why great care and maintenance are required especially for doors, as they take a lot of punishment by household members, the weather and even pets. Your doors should be weather-proof. Invest in good flashing for both doors and windows.
You can customize windows and doors but they will cost an arm and a leg. You will find specialized manufacturers who can create your windows and doors “to spec.” Also, unusual designs may be more difficult to install so be prepared!
An outside door can be problematic if it is not installed at the correct height above the floor. Doors go in after the rough floor is done. The floor’s thickness must be considered including any rugs or carpets you want to put in.
It’s even trickier when sliders and French doors are involved. In fact, builders say that French doors – though beautiful and classic – are the toughest doors to deal with because all parts must blend together and work well.
If you’re going to invest in expensive doors, a professional fitter is worth the extra money. Protect your investment by leaving that to the pros!
You’ve now reached the lock-up stage. You can lock your house when you leave the construction site!
Tip # 6: a friendly reminder: when you install major structures outside your property, be aware of city regulations; otherwise you’ll have neighbours knocking at your door. For example, if you install an air conditioning system outside and it creates a lot of noise, you could end up fighting your neighbors!
Tip # 7: find out if there are any home shows or home fairs being held. This is a good time to learn about new products and maybe take advantage of supplier discounts or promotional sales!
Part 4: Outside Finishing
“I guess when you turn off the main road, you have to be prepared to see some funny houses.”
Stephen King
In this section, we’ll cover:
- Garage
- Brick Laying
- Siding
- Stucco, Driveway and Garage Floor
- Decks and Railings
- Landscaping
- Garage
Builders install the garage door after the garage floor is finished. Usually the drywall is already installed; in some cases, the drywall is installed afterwards but this may cause some inconvenience to the garage door installer.
Whether or not the garage will be connected to the house or is separate, it’s still a good idea to insulate the garage doors. During the cold months, insulation can save you money.
Nowadays, most garage doors are automatic; if you don’t have them in the beginning, make sure wiring is already in place should you decide you want one later.
Brick Laying
It is best to lay the bricks at this stage, even before the stucco or siding is installed. When you shop for bricks (or stone), look at large combined samples from the supplier or manufacturer. There is a reason for seeing a large sample versus one piece: you can detect color variations or flaws. Looking at one brick (or stone) versus seeing a mass of bricks can change your opinion.
House owners have complained about the brick or stone being a bad match to the rest of the house’s material. It isn’t a good idea to match old and new materials; what you could consider is choosing material that will complement the other materials of the house.
House owners also complain about the quality of tooling of the mortar joints. This is where you could ask a mason or contractor for advice.
Siding
You don’t want high maintenance siding. One type of siding that is basically problem-free is vinyl siding. Other types include metal, masonite, fiber cement, engineered wood and hard board siding.
You have either horizontal or vertical siding. Horizontal siding means you have a series of boards attached horizontally to the home with nails through the sheathing where the nails are hammered directly into the framing studs.
Vertical siding is also known as panel siding. It is installed across the studs of the house and may sometimes require wooden strips to be placed over the joints to prevent leaking. Vertical siding can be painted or stained and preserved against weather elements.
Stuccos, Driveway and Garage Floor
Applying stucco should be done during good weather. The type of surface is a key factor. Application methods will depend on whether the surface is made of block, brick, wood or any other type of material.
The general steps in applying stucco are:
- Apply a bonding agent on the wall and allow it to dry.
- When the agent dries completely, stucco can be directly applied beginning with a scratch coat (mortar layer of about half an inch thickness). Allow it to harden.
- When the mortar turns hard, it must be scratched 1/8 of an inch. Leave for about 4 days and spray it (misting) periodically to preserve moisture.
- Apply the finishing coat and allow it to dry for another 48 hours with regular misting.
As for the driveway and garage floor, these can be prepped as soon as the lot has been backfilled. Don’t apply the finishing touches yet. Wait until the workers have cleaned up.
Again, you can build the driveway yourself but bear in mind that it is a laborious process requiring large doses of patience.
You have choices for your driveway’s design. Majority of homeowners choose a single slab design which can take many types of vehicles. You also have the option of choosing gravel, sand, brick, paving stone or other types of materials. Double check your city government’s requirements for the thickness of the slab.
For efficient draining, the driveway must be at an upward angle. If this can’t be done, install drainage in the garage area and under the driveway to avoid water poodles from forming.
Your driveway must be built with adequate fill. This is essential. You need a minimum of two packed layers. Next comes the oil for the concrete. This prevents water from seeping out. When you finally pour the concrete, allow for expansion joints to minimize cracking. Let the concrete dry and cure completely. Keep it covered for at least 72 hours and apply moisture periodically.
Decks and Railings
Decking work follows stucco and siding work.
Building a deck is detailed work but you can build it yourself if you wish, with a bit of help from an expert.
You need to learn about:
- Designing a deck
- Tools and materials
- Length and level of ledger
- Cutting the ends of joists and deck blocks
- Digging foundation holes and pier blocks
- Installing joists
- Railing and waterproofing
- How a deck enhances the value of your house
Your deck will need a railing if it stands 24 inches from the ground. Your railing choices range from wood, aluminum, glass, etc. Choose well as some types of railings need a lot of TLC (tender loving care) while others don’t.
Landscaping
If there’s another value enhancer, it is the landscaping. Again, don’t attempt it if you’ve never landscaped before. Also, there’s no need to rush landscaping work. The absence of any landscaping bothers house owners because the house looks incomplete from the outside. If you’re patient, however, and still have some funds on reserve, invest in a good landscaper. Waiting will give the backfill time to settle as well.
Don’t worry about the house not being “dressed up” because of no landscaping. Take your time to study different designs.
Tip # 8: Many roof styles are available. Flat roofs are like “all-purpose” flour – they work well in most cases, but they are difficult to seal against rain and snow.
Tip # 9: If you’re going to have floor drains in your garage, there are building codes to respect regarding where these drains lead to as motor oil and other substances could be sources of pollution.
Tip # 10: You can use the topsoil from your property for your landscaping needs, especially if it’s good quality topsoil. Conserve it!
Part 5: Let’s Go Inside!
Do you know what it means to come home at night to a woman who'll give you a little love, a little affection, a little tenderness? It means you're in the wrong house, that's what it means.”
Henry Youngman
The interior of a house is a “many-splendored thing”. Details, details and more details! But this is where all the fun starts and family members will definitely want to have a say in paint colors, cabinets, tiles, lights and blinds. Not to mention the decision on whether or not to install carpet.
- Alarm, central vacuum and sound systems
- Insulation / Ventilation / Drywall
- Cleaning
- Painting / Wallpaper
- Cabinets and Tiles
- Lighting
- Carpets
Alarm, Central Vacuum and Sound Systems
Even if you aren’t sure about having an alarm, central vacuum or sound system, have your house pre-wired anyway for these features. This is because you don’t want to have to tear down walls to insert wires and cables should you decide later that you want them. A second reason is that should you sell your house, these nice extras will help you negotiate better.
Insulation/Ventilation/Drywall
Before you purchase the materials for insulating and ventilating your home, find out from your utility company or city government if they could suggest energy-efficient systems and if you qualify for federal or provincial tax credits or incentives.
The purpose of insulation is to decrease the amount of heat transfer. This way the house stays warmer in cool weather and cooler in warm weather. Ventilation is a must, especially if you plan on having an attic. First, it allows hot air to escape during summer so the attic does not overheat. Second, it avoids over-condensation which can damage wood in the long term.
Insulation and ventilation cover about five steps and you’ll need an engineer or insulation expert to show you how to ventilate the attic (using soffit plugs, gable vent, continuous ridge vent, wind turbine or flexi vent) and insulate the following elements:
- rafters (with fibreglass)
- attic floor (many choose fibreglass insulation)
- walls
- basement
Insulation has another purpose: sound proofing. You may want to consider insulating bathrooms, the laundry room, bedroom and spaces between floors.
When inspection for the insulation is completed, drywall is the next step. Drywall is also known as gyp board, gypsum or wallboard. A distinct feature of drywall is flame-resistance so it is often recommended for wood frames to prevent the rapid spread of fire. It is also inexpensive.
Robert Roskind (Building Your Own House, Ten Speed Press) says you should avoid some of these drywall mistakes:
- not having insulation inspected before covering with drywall
- hammering nails and screws too deep that they break the paper on the panels
- not using drywall nails or screws
- not butting panels at the center of the a stud or rafter
- applying the drywall on the wrong side
Cleaning
It goes without saying that the house must be 100% spic and span before any finishing work is carried out.
Painting / Wallpaper
The decision to paint or to wallpaper is a personal matter; the same applies to color choices for paint and print patterns for wallpaper.
Whatever you decide, the most important thing is to make sure that the walls and ceilings are clean and dry and have no moisture problems. The right tools must also be within reach and the manufacturer’s recommendations must be followed to the letter.
For painting large surfaces like ceilings, use a good quality roller. This avoids you having to balance yourself on a ladder. Note that painting the ceiling can also cause neck, head, shoulder and arm strain.
Today’s wallpapers are already pre-pasted. This means you peel off the adhesive strip and soak it in water. Again, follow the manufacturer’s rules. If it recommends letting the wallpaper rest for 10 minutes after soaking, don’t attempt to apply it in less that time. Some people like to use glue even with pre-pasted wallpaper for better adhesion. This is unnecessary provided that your wall is properly prepped and your wallpaper is of good quality.
Cabinets and Tiles
A rule of thumb: the floors must be installed before cabinets are put in. This is to avoid cutting linoleum too frequently. Too much cutting can cause it to fold or warp.
The general sequence of steps for setting up the kitchen:
- Preparation of walls and floors (this means they’re painted and tiled already)
- Cabinet installation (wall cabinets first, base cabinets and islands next)
- Doors, drawers and handles and knobs
- Base for countertops, sink, and counter tops
- Faucets
- Appliances (here is where you need to ensure accurate measurements for appliances to fit)
Don’t agonise over making your cabinets from scratch. If you’re not a cabinet-maker, why take the chance of wasting time and money trying to make your own? With today’s assortment of styles, colors, materials and design, your cabinets can still reflect your personality by customizing them to suit your preferences.
Shop and compare way ahead of time. Choose a cabinet supplier that will deliver and install for free or at a discounted price.
Lighting
One of the most pleasant feelings in life is lighting a Christmas tree once all the decorations are put in. Imagine what it’s like to finally light up your house after all the hard work you’ve done!
One industry that seems to consistently innovate is the home lighting industry. Gone are the plain and boring fluorescent lamps and bulbs that we got used to at grandpa’s and grandma’s house. Today, you can choose from a dizzying array of contemporary lighting, traditional lighting, mission lighting, craftsman lighting, country lighting, tropical lighting and many, many more!
Some parts of the house will look nice with floor lamps while other areas can be dramatically enhanced with desk lamps or track lights. Choose your lighting fixtures well because these are the components that will give your house that oomph! In fact, one real estate agent said that lights can clinch or break a deal. Don’t skimp on lighting fixtures - they bring out the best of your house’s special features.
Carpet
In cold climates, carpets provide warmth. The only downside to carpets is that they tend to absorb smells and pet hair and are susceptible to stains.
Carpet is the last item that is installed. If you want to install it yourself, make sure you have the necessary materials (measuring tape, knee pads, protection eyewear, knife, hammer, strips, chalk, etc) and equipment (seaming iron, seaming stretcher, strip cutter, wall trimmer, seam roller, tape and power stretcher).
CONCLUSION
Phew! That’s it folks. We should have put a disclaimer right in the beginning of this series that these guidelines will not make you a house building expert overnight, or even in 12 months. Like we said earlier, these are general guidelines.
But we hope it gave you a good flavour of what house building is all about and what each stage of the project entails.
No doubt the real experts will say, “hey you missed this important detail” or “you’re wrong about the drywall”, but we have tried our best to give you accurate information which you can use when you embark on this larger-than-life project.
Here’s a short list of recommended readings:
J.M. Gore and William Null, So You Want to Build a House, June 2006. ISBN-10: 0071474935; ISBN-13: 978-0071474931 (includes about a dozen worksheets and deals with topics like who to talk to and what to say, budget talk, enhancing the value of your house).
Amy Johnson, What Your Contractor Can’t Tell You, January 2008, ISBN-10: 0979983800; ISBN-13: 978-0979983801
Web site of the Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/prfinas/index.cfm. Find out about assistance programs and government incentives.
There’s a helpful article about the professionals to call on.
Web site of the National Association of Homebuilders, a US association: http://www.nahb.org/.
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