Most of the time, matching food with wine is pretty straightforward. However, there are some foods that are more difficult to pair. Turkey, for instance, is a bit more problematic because it has both light and dark meat. Oriental food can be tricky as well, due to the wide variety of flavors involved.
The old rule—red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat—was never really true to begin with, and it certainly won’t help here. The ‘hams’ on a swine are the upper back legs, while the front upper legs are called the ‘shoulders.’ Although pork is generally considered a white meat, ham is in a sort of limbo. It has characteristics of both, along with a few unique qualities of its own. Ham is both sweet and salty, with wonderful musky undertones. Depending on how it is cured and prepared, ham can range from delicate to robust.
There are different types of hams, each with its own distinct flavors and characteristics. The most common method of turning pork into ham is by wet curing and smoking, where the pork is brined and hung in a smokehouse for several months. County hams, true Virginia-cured hams, prosciutto, and other ethnic hams are dry-cured, meaning they are rubbed with salts and nitrates to preserve them and concentrate the flavor. Afterward, they are smoked for a finishing touch.
Ham can be prepared in many ways, from fruity, pineapple-flavored Hawaiian ham to sweet baked ham, and even robust ham served with green beans and potato soup. In selecting the right wine to pair, we need to consider how the ham will be prepared.
Wine Pairings for Different Types of Ham
Baked ham is the easiest to pair. It is usually glazed with a sweet, syrupy mixture of honey, molasses, or brown sugar, giving it a medium-strong musky flavor with a slight sweetness. Good pairings for this would be certain Pinot Noirs. Pinot Noir wines are medium-bodied with fruity overtones of black cherry, currant, and raspberry. The bouquet is typically voluptuous and perfume-like. Burgundy wines are a type of Pinot Noir. Normally, I would recommend a good French Burgundy, but in this case, California has developed a much lighter, more fruit-forward version of Pinot Noir that pairs excellently with baked ham. New Zealand also produces a lighter version that complements baked ham beautifully. The true character of the grape seems to shine in these gentler versions. Another good choice is a dry Vouvray Chenin Blanc. Vouvray Chenin Blanc has a naturally high acidity that complements the sweet and musky flavors of baked ham wonderfully. Vouvray ages well and is one of the few wines that benefit from long aging, sometimes up to 100 years. A good dry Vouvray will have a slightly floral bouquet and delightful flavors of nuts, honey, ginger, figs, and apples, with floral overtones. Lastly, you can never go wrong with a good Riesling, especially from Germany. Riesling is one of those wines that are very terroir-expressive, meaning they truly reflect the land where the grapes were grown. While very good Rieslings are produced worldwide, for ham, I prefer a dry version from the Baden area of Germany. These are crisp, acidic, aromatic, and fruity, with flavors of apples, grapefruit, peaches, honey, rose blossoms, and fresh-cut green grass. It pairs wonderfully with baked ham. While Rieslings age well, I prefer them young. Aged Riesling often develops a petroleum-like flavor, which I don’t find appealing. Many wine connoisseurs prize this quality, but I am not one of them. To each their own…
For Hawaiian ham, I strongly recommend a dry Sauvignon Blanc. While there are many great versions made in California, Africa, New Zealand, and other countries, I really prefer the original versions from the Bordeaux region of France. It is another wine that truly showcases its terroir, and the Bordeaux wine retains a feral quality that others lack. This quality helps bring out the fruitiness of ham and pineapple, making the pairing particularly exciting. Sauvignon Blanc can range from grassy to tropical, depending on where the grapes were grown. The Bordeaux version has a slightly floral bouquet that is not overpowering, with a tart taste and flavors of fresh citrus, light berries, and just a hint of acidity. Another good pairing that offers a slightly different experience is a Beaujolais from the original Beaujolais province in France. Don’t get me wrong—I’m not a French wine fanatic, but I do have to give them credit. When it comes to wine and food, the French really know their stuff. Beaujolais is made from the Gamay grape, and the French version produces a light, easy-drinking red wine that’s as close to an all-around wine as there is. This is the stereotypical French bistro wine. It is mildly acidic with flavors of banana and pears. It’s also my favorite cooking wine for many dishes. Lastly, one of my favorite wines of all time, Gewurztraminer, is a natural match for any kind of ham. Gewurztraminer is a slightly sweet, very aromatic white wine with an almost aphrodisiac-like bouquet made up of lychee, rose petals, passion fruit, and other floral notes. Its flavor is slightly sweet and alluring, with subtle spicy notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, peaches, and citrus. It complements any ham dish with style, elegance, and perhaps a little mystery.
These are just suggestions based on my personal experience and preferences. You may agree or disagree with any or all of them. There are other wines that can be paired with ham, and each one depends on your personal taste. When trying to decide which wines go well with ham, as always, the bottom line is drink what you like. That’s the only test that really matters.
